When learning how to sharpen knives, often one of the fist things to confuse people is whether oil or water are needed on sharpening stones. A sharpening stone is one of the easiest way to sharpen your blades, whether you want to restore the sharp edge on your kitchen cutlery or need to sharpen some woodworking tools. There are many varieties made of stone or any number of manufactured materials, and they are usually found in the form of a block. With these and other types of knife sharpeners, you may or may not need to use any liquid, depending on the type of sharpener you have selected and its material.

When designed for use with lubricating liquid, a sharpening stone may be called a waterstone, whetstone, or oilstone. When in doubt, read the instructions. Some knife sharpeners are designed for use with a particular type of oil, while others are specifically designed for use without lubricating liquid. You should not lubricate a stone not designed to be used when moist, and you should not use a waterstone or oilstone when it is dry, as each is designed to be used in a particular manner. Some can be used either wet or dry; generally, using such stones wet is recommended, as it has several benefits during the sharpening process.

The purpose of moistening the stone with water or oil before use is to absorb the metal and stone dust (sometimes referred to as 'swarf') that is created through the process of sharpening a blade. The liquid keeps this debris from clogging the pores of the sharpening stone. According to many, it also makes the stone more effective at sharpening blades quickly, or helps to dissipate the heat caused by friction.

Depending on the knife sharpener, you can lubricate the surface with water, a water-based honing oil, or a petroleum-based honing oil. You should choose one type and stick with it, since the porous sharpening stone will absorb the lubricating fluid, making it difficult to switch from one type of lubrication to another, particularly when starting with an oil-based lubricant rather than water.

For best results, choose an oil that is designed specifically for honing or sharpening. Though vegetable oil was once recommended for this purpose, it will turn gummy, clogging the pores in your sharpening stone over time. It may also turn rancid, requiring the replacement of your sharpener. Other suggestions for lubricating oils include mineral oil or machine oil, though the best choice is honing oil that is designed for this purpose.

When lubricating a sharpening stone using water, soak the stone for at least ten minutes prior to sharpening your knives. Be generous with honing fluid. There should be a pool visible on the surface of the stone as you are sharpening the blade. As the oil grows darker with use, wipe it off with a rag, and add more fluid. When you're done using the sharpener, wipe it clean, letting it dry thoroughly before putting the stone away. Over time, both oil and the dust of metal or stone shavings may build up on the surface of the knife sharpener. You can use an old toothbrush to remove some of this residue.

If you enjoy knife making or sharpening, and are looking for a fun new project, consider making and sharpening your own arrowheads. You can make arrowheads using both modern and traditional materials and methods. This art of turning stone into a blade is known as flint knapping, and it was once a key survival skill, though today it has evolved into a unique hobby.

To make an arrowhead using flint knapping techniques, you'll break open a piece of rock, chipping flakes off the stone until it is shaped into the intended arrowhead shape. When practicing flint-knapping, wear eye protection, since you will be unable to control where the sharp flakes of stone will fly.

Only some stone types can be made into arrowheads. These include flint, obsidian, jasper, and other brittle stones with a fine-grained texture that is generally free of cracks. Another traditional material is bone, which was used by natives on the Northern Plains where no suitable stone types could be found. You can shape an arrowhead from glass or porcelain; today, some even use the bottoms from beer bottles to practice their techniques without wasting materials.

Besides the material for the arrowhead, you'll need a few simple tools for shaping it. The most common tools used for making your own arrowheads are percussion and pressure flaking tools made of stone, bone, copper, antler, or a wide variety of other materials, both primitive and modern. You can also use a metal file or a sharpening wheel for this task.

In the first steps of turning a piece of stone into an arrowhead the idea is to break the material apart in a controlled way by hitting it at the right angle. This is generally used to create the edges and flat shape of the arrowhead from the rough material, which usually has rounded edges and is relatively thick. At first you may go through several different pieces of stone before one breaks in the right manner, providing a good basis for your first arrowhead.

Now you'll be using smaller striking tools to further shape the arrowhead. The pieces removed using these tools should be much smaller flakes than those removed when first shaping the stone. This is very similar to the process of knife sharpening, which first involves a course grit to remove larger amounts of material, and then a fine grit to further shape the edge. Rather than using traditional striking tools, this step can involve the use of metal files or an electric sharpening wheel, depending on the hardness of the material you've chosen to work with and how much material still needs to be removed.

Once the overall shape of the arrowhead has been accomplished, it's time for pressure flaking. In this process, a specialized tool is pressed against the edge of the arrowhead, causing a long, thin flake to come off the surface. This allows for the arrowhead edges to be sharpened down into thin, very sharp edges. You may be surprised at just how sharp these edges can become using simple handheld tools.

The final step in arrowhead creation is known as notching, or the process of creating gaps in the base of the arrowhead which would allow it to be bound to an arrow shaft. These are usually created using pressure flaking or simply abrading the surface of the stone with a file or any other abrasive material, creating a deep indentation in the surface.

If you've ever found or even seen an arrowhead, you may marvel at the sharpness of its edges. Created for hundreds of years using the simplest tools, arrowheads can be found in an astonishing variety of shapes and styles. This traditional hunting implement was once used by native cultures across North America. Today, you can make your own using a few simple tools.

Have you heard some of the most common knife myths? One old wives tale, for example, says that giving a knife as a gift is bad luck because it “cuts” the relationship. Another tale says that if a butter knife falls to the floor accidentally, a family is coming to visit. Besides these tales, there are many misconceptions that affect knife usage. Believing some of these myths can actually make it harder to use your knives. Here are some of the more prevalent knife myths:

A dull knife is safer to use.
According to some, it is better to let knives get very dull before sharpening them, because the dull knife is safer to use. Though it does have a blunter edge, it will not cut cleanly into the object, and could slip and cut you. A dull knife also requires more pressure, increasing the possibility of injury. Meanwhile, a sharp knife requires little force and is much easier to control. Keep your knives sharp rather than letting them get overly dull.

When a knife gets dull, the edge is gone.
As a high-quality knife dulls, the sharp edge does not actually wear away. Instead, it folds over on itself. The knife's sharp edge is microscopically thin, so this fold can't actually be seen by the human eye. Because it is so thin, the pressure of cutting causes the thin edge to fold. Sharpening can straighten this folded edge, restoring the sharpness of your knife.

There are knives that stay sharp forever.
Though there are some knives advertised to last forever without sharpening, this simply isn't possible. Every knife will get dull over time, although some knives will stay sharper for longer. How the knife is used and cared for also has a lot to do with how sharp it will stay over time.

Many knives can be washed in the dishwasher.
Stainless steel knives, particularly, may be advertised as being dishwasher-safe. However, the hot water, chemicals, and movement in a dishwasher can damage even stainless steel cutlery. The action of washing a knife in the dishwasher can damage not only the knife, but also the other utensils in your dishwasher as well as your hand when you reach into the dishwasher.

All knife steels are the same.
Actually, there are vast differences in the quality of knives based on the type of material or alloy used. High-quality alloys have edges that stay sharp longer. A harder blade is not necessarily more durable, as may be too brittle and prone to chips. Edge durability requires a combination of flexibility and strength that is achieved through use of the right materials.

Knife sharpening is too difficult to do at home.
Actually, it is very easy to sharpen your own knives at home, as long as you have the proper sharpening tools for your type of knife. Sharpening your own knife is convenient and easy.

When it comes to knives, there are many myths. These widely accepted myths cause many to purchase the wrong knives or care for them improperly. When purchasing, using, or sharpening knives, be sure to know the truth rather than trusting these misconceptions.

Regardless of the type of knife set you have chosen for your kitchen, you will need at least one cutting board. Many cooks have one board for cutting meat, and another for cutting vegetables. There are dozens of different choices for cutting boards. Did you know that some  boards can cause your knife to wear down much faster than others? By choosing the right cutting board, you can preserve your knife’s sharp edge for a much longer time, although all knives will eventually become dull over time, requiring sharpening to restore their edge.

When it comes to cutting boards, the most common materials are plastic, wooden, and tempered glass. Plastic boards have a non-porous surface, and are easily washed to remove traces of juice from meats and vegetables. They come in many different colors to coordinate with your kitchen décor, and are usually your least expensive option. Thought to be the most sanitary type of cutting board, most are dishwasher safe. However, they will get cuts in the surface over time. When your plastic cutting board has multiple deep cuts from your sharp kitchen knives, it’s time to buy a replacement, since bacteria can get caught in these cuts.

Wooden cutting boards are the oldest type of cutting board; they have existed in the form of wooden chopping blocks or “butcher blocks” for centuries. Wooden cutting boards are better for your knives, which will not become dull as quickly. There are many beautiful handcrafted wooden boards available, and many people find wooden cutting boards more attractive than plastic ones.

The downside of wooden cutting boards is that wood is porous, which can cause concerns when raw meat is cut on such a board. These germs can soak into a wooden cutting board, and may become trapped in the cuts made by knives on the board’s surface. However, proper cleaning of the cutting board can mitigate this danger. Though most cannot be placed in the dishwasher, proper hand washing of a wooden cutting board will kill the germs. It does take a while for the board to dry thoroughly, since it soaks up a lot of water.

Tempered glass cutting boards can double as a hot pad because they are so resistant to heat. Similarly to plastic cutting boards, they can be placed in the dishwasher and are easy to clean. These glass boards come in many different designs. However, the hard surface can dull knives quicker, and many cooks hate the sound of a knife scraping against glass. The upside of this hard surface is that your knives will not create cuts that can harbor bacteria.

A high-quality cutting board will last longer than a less expensive one, though many cooks like to replace their cutting boards often, regardless of how worn they appear. In addition, many cooks have two or more cutting boards available at all times, for example one for meats, one for vegetables, and an extra for when your boards are in the dishwasher. When buying your knife accessories, don’t forget about knife storage and sharpening options. Regardless of the cutting board you choose, you will need a knife sharpener. A safe storage option that keeps your knives from hitting against each other in a drawer can also keep your knives sharper for longer.

Spyderco is known for high performance folding knives and sharpening tools designed for use with a wide range of knife styles. Spyderco is committed to manufacturing the highest level of reliable and utilitarian knives and knife accessories.

Founded in 1978 by Sal Glesser, Spyderco is based in Golden, Colorado. In recognition of Glesser’s influences on tactical knife design, he was inducted into the Blade Magazine Cutlery Hall of Fame in 2000. Originally, the company produced only knife sharpeners. Their first folding knife was introduced in 1981. This model, the C01 Worker, set the standard for innovative knife designs from Spyderco. It featured a round hole in the blade, designed to improve the ease of one-handed opening.

Spyderco has continued this tradition of innovation through every subsequent knife design, particularly in their line of folding knives. The company introduced many features that are now common on such knives, including innovations such as the pocket clip, serrations on folding knife blades, and the opening hole. Known for ergonomic design and simple, reliable operation, Spyderco knives are popular with law enforcement, fire and rescue personnel, hunters and outdoor adventurers, and private citizens.

Since its founding, Spyderco designers have thought beyond established knife design principles to introduce new design features. The company remains dedicated to developing improved knife designs using better performing materials with an eye towards function and reliability. The Spyderco million-dollar testing facility allows for the examination of edge retention, rust development, force, and other knife blade characteristics. Each Spyderco knife is manufactured for peak performance and ergonomic comfort. Spyderco knives are designed to be used heavily, not just displayed on a shelf.

Still, Spyderco’s well-designed knives result from collaborations with over 30 custom knife makers, athletes, and self-defense instructors, and are known for distinctive design as well as quality construction. Spyderco often produces limited-edition models from well-known knife designers. Referred to as “sprint runs,” these knives are generally versions of discontinued models with a special blade and handle. Other sprint runs are completely new models. One of the most popular of these has been the Kopa, which came with several handle materials, from micata, a modern fiberglass-type product, to tiger coral, a beautiful natural material.

Other Spyderco knife designs are sold through Byrd, a subdivision of Spyderco. Using slightly lower quality materials than most Spyderco-branded versions, they are manufactured in China, allowing them to be sold at much lower prices while offering much the same quality as Spydero knives. Most Byrd knives have handles made of stainless steel, aluminum, or fiberglass reinforced nylon, emphasizing function over aesthetics.

Spyderco’s innovations include not only folding knife style, but also blade materials. Since 1978, the company has experimented with nearly two dozen different blade materials. They were the first company to experiment with many of the newest steel types, and today remain on the cutting edge of knife design and production. Each knife style produced by Spyderco uses a blade steel that has been specifically chosen depending on the type of knife and its intended purpose or use. Many of the steels used in Spyderco knives are stainless or rust-proof, sharpen easily, and have good edge retention.

The Macuahuitl is an ancient Aztec weapon shaped like a sword. The Macuahuitl is made of wood, and its sides are embedded with blades made from obsidian, a volcanic glass stone frequently used by the Aztecs and other pre-Columbian cultures in the making of tools.

This weapon was commonly used by Aztec military forces and other cultures found in present-day central Mexico. In fact, its use was so widespread that it was noted repeatedly in notes taken during the sixteenth century Spanish conquest, likely at the peak of the Macuahuitl’s popularity. Unfortunately, the last authentic Aztec Macuahuitl was destroyed in a fire in Madrid in 1884. Little is known about this weapon other than what can be inferred by drawings or records by Spanish conquistadors.

The Macuahuitl was often used in combat with a chimalli, or round shield, a tlauitolli, or bow, and the atlatl, or spear thrower. Though it is sometimes called a sword, it is not a true sword, and there is no European equivalent for this weapon.

This weapon could be made in both one-handed and two-handed forms. It measured three to four feet long, and was only about three inches wide. A groove along each edge allowed the insertion of sharp-edged pieces of obsidian or, less frequently, flint. These pieces would then be held securely in the groove using some sort of natural adhesive.

Though the Machuahuitl’s wooden “blade” itself was not sharp enough to inflict any damage, the rows of obsidian blades could cause serious lacerations. According to some accounts, it was sharp enough to decapitate a man, and possibly even a horse. The Macuahuitl was used not only in battle, but also in sacrifices to the gods.

In some cases, the rows of obsidian were spaced apart, with gaps in between, similar to sawteeth. In other versions, the rows of obsidian were placed so closely together that the sharp obsidian formed a single edge, much like a sword. Carvings found at the Mexican prehistorical site Chichen Itza depict clubs having separate blades sticking out from each side. In another carving, a warrior holds a club with many blades on one side and one sharp point on the other side. Both versions are thought to be early versions of the macuahuitl.

Though the Macuahuitl is best known as an Aztec weapon, the idea of using obsidian to form a sword-like blade was not new even then. Obsidian used for small knives, scrapers, drills, razors, and arrow points has been found in numerous Mesoamerican cultures predating the Aztecs. Several obsidian mines were located near Aztec civilizations, providing the raw materials for these tools and weapons.

The obsidian used for the blades of these unique weapons can achieve a very sharp edge. In fact, modern knives are only now beginning to rival the possible sharpness of obsidian. Plus, it only required stone-age technology for shaping, unlike modern metals, and required absolutely no fire forging. The drawback, however, is that obsidian is very brittle. As a result, it cannot maintain its sharpness for very long. It will easily chip or break, and it would have been surprisingly easy to break the entire blade in half by accident.

Have you ever wondered at the beauty of a well-made knife? Whether you are a collector or use your knives in the kitchen or outdoors every day, a well-made knife is built to last, not to mention a work of art. Whether crafted for use or for display, most knives are assembled in the same basic way.

Before the knife can be assembled, the individual parts must be made. Knife manufacturers have their choice from hundreds of different handle materials, not to mention grades of steel for the blade. The steel blade may be carbon steel, tool steel, or stainless steel; decorative knives and primitive knives have also been made from copper, brass, bronze, iron, flint, obsidian, and other unique materials. When a knife is made for display rather than for use, the knife designer has much wider latitude in terms of material choices.

Different steels are used for different knife purposes. There is always a tradeoff between hardness and corrosion resistance, as well as edge retention (the amount of time a sharp edge will remain sharp), and achievable sharpness (how sharp it is possible to make the blade). For example, obsidian can achieve one of the sharpest possible edges, but it does not retain that edge long before it cracks or chips. Low carbon steel is inexpensive to produce, though it bends easily and will not hold an edge long, requiring frequent sharpening.

The initial shaping of a knife blade is usually done through either blanking or forging. For a forged knife, the blade material is heated to a very high temperature and then shaped to roughly the finished shape. Often, this blade will require very little shaping in order to finish the blade. The blanking process is generally used in a mass production environment, as it takes more setup, though the same blank can be used to make thousands of identical blades. The blade material is stamped from a sheet, using a variety of methods depending on the steel composition and the desired thickness.

Once the blade has been shaped, it is on to the grinding process. Today, this step is usually completed with power equipment such as grinding wheels or belt sanders, though it is also possible to grind a knife using files. The knife is gently cut to the desired shape by removing small areas of the steel.

The quality of the finished blade is determined by the finishing grind. It may range from 150-250 grit, which is a low shine finish, to an approximate grit of 10,000 to 12,000, which results in a mirror-like finish. Most high quality knives from well-known manufacturers are finished using about 8,000 grit. To make the knife blade stronger than the raw metal itself, heat treating is often used. This application of heating and cooling makes the knife stronger; tempering and annealing are two such processes used.

While most people are familiar with mass produced knives, did you know that there are also beautiful custom knives made by knife craftsmen? Hours may go in to making a single knife. Every detail, down to the finish and heat treating, is carefully thought out to create a showcase-worthy knife. It’s much more than a piece of steel and a wooden handle that comprises a finished knife. Like all other collectibles, custom or handmade knives vary greatly in beauty, quality, and price.

Knives come in a wide array of styles and materials. Though you may not realize it, the handle of your knife is often just as important as the blade. Different knife handles give different performances; the materials from which they are made affect grip, balance, and other characteristics of the knife. Many handles, especially on rugged knives designed for outdoor use, are specially textured to allow for easier grip.

Knife Materials - Many hunting knives have handles made of stainless steel. This material will not rust if it gets wet, which is likely in outdoor environments. These sanitary knife blades are very easy to clean and will not stain. They can be slippery, though, and for this reason many knife makers make stainless steel handles with ridges or indentations designed to provide extra grip.

A modern material used in hunting knives is Mircata, a stable and tough material that is known as an excellent insulator. Providing an excellent grip even when wet, the term Mircata has come to refer to any fibrous or fiberglass resin material, and there are many varieties available for knife handles.

Wooden knife handles often provide excellent grip. They are warm in the hand, but often require specialized care. Wooden handles are not very water resistant, and will crack or warp if left in water for lengthy periods of time. Modern wooden handles are laminated to overcome these problems, and exotic wooden handles can be found on many custom knives.

Occasionally, a leather handle will be seen on hunting or military knives, such as the KA-BAR. Leather handles may be produced by stacking leather washers, or the leather may simply be a sleeve that is attached to an underlying handle material.

Plastic and rubber handles are durable, inexpensive, and easy to maintain, though they are often found on inexpensive knives rather than top-end knives. Plastic becomes slippery when wet, and becomes brittle over time. Usually, rubber is preferred over plastic because of its cushioning abilities.

There are many exotic materials that are usually only seen on artistic or ceremonial knives, though occasionally they are also found on knives meant to be used. These include stone, bone, ivory, and antler (known as ‘stag’ when used for a knife handle). Many of these materials can be carved to produce a beautiful scene inset into the knife handle.

Construction - Many knives include a tang, which is a portion of the blade designed to extend into the handle. A knife with a partial tang or “stick tang” includes a tang that only extends part of the way into the handle, not the full length of the handle. A full tang extends the full length of the handle, and is often visible (as a strip of metal) on the top and bottom edges of the handle. In some cases, the knife handle consists only of the tang. This type of knife style is referred to as a “skeleton handle” when the visible tang has sections of material removed or cut out to reduce the weight of the handle.

An optional feature of the handle is a bolster, which affects the weighting and is used to balance the knife. This piece is usually made of brass or another metal, and is found at the front of the handle, where attaches to the blade. In the same area, a guard may also be found. This piece protects the hand from an opponent or from sliding down onto the blade itself. A choil, an indented, unsharpened area of the blade just before it meets the handle, protects the handle from scratches when sharpening the blade.

The end of the handle, or butt, may have special features like a hole to allow a lanyard. It may also have a stout surface, sometimes a protruding portion of the tang, as a striking surface for the purpose of pounding or glass breaking.

Not only have swords played an integral role in warfare, defense, and the military for thousands of years, but they have also played a very important role in many popular movies and books as well as mythology.

Throughout history, important battles and wars have spawned myths about the swords used. Attila the Hun claimed that his sword was once the sword of Mars, the God of War in Roman mythology. Many know the name of King Arthur’s sword, Excalibur. Joyeause was the Sword of Charlemagne, and Lobera was the sword of the King Saint Ferdinand III of Castile. Philippan was the name of the sword given to Marc Antony by Cleopatra; he lost the sword when he was defeated by Octavian.

Swords have also played an important part in literature over the years. In the Old English epic poem “Beowulf,” Hrunting is the name of the sword lent to Beowulf. In Beowulf’s older years, he used the sword Naegling to fight the dragon. Swords still appear in modern fiction, though in a wide variety of forms. Who could forget the lightsaber concept, made popular in the Star Wars films? This concept has inspired similar laser-type swords in the world of science fiction. The Zanbatou is an unrealistically large sword found in Japanese anime and other media. The Vorpal, a sword from the poem “Jabberwocky,” has found its way into many modern works of fiction as a magical sword.

Today, several popular movie and book series incorporate swords, including Harry Potter, Pirates of the Caribbean, Lord of the Rings, Highlander, and Chronicles of Narnia. All five have inspired movie replica swords that are just like the ones you saw in the film. No matter your favorite film genre, there are sure to be swords that have been recreated for collectors. Hellboy 2 replica weapons, Kill Bill Japanese Katanas, Spartan weapons from the movie “300,” samurai swords from the movie “The Last Samurai,” and Japanese anime sword replicas are just a few of the kinds of fantasy swords you can find.

The trend of fantasy swordmaking first began with the movie “Conan,” released in 1982. In conjunction with the movie release, a replica of his Atlantean sword, a unique sword created just for the movie, was also produced. Today, most movie swords are crafted true to the original sword as seen in the movie, often with the input of the writer, director, or producer. They make a great conversation piece and a wonderful collectible for any fan of the movie or sword enthusiast.

If you are fascinated by these mythological, historical, fictional, or magical swords, consider starting a collection of fantasy swords. Many of the swords described in legends, books and movies have been reproduced in versions meant solely for collectors, and make beautiful display pieces. Some are even meant to be handled or used. They come in hundreds of different styles, from those made as faithful reproductions of swords that played a central role in hit movies to swords that are famous in literature, history, or mythology.

The development of the long edged weapon known as the sword was already well underway by the Bronze Age. In fact, rudimentary swords were developed even before metals, though of course these had very crude blades (made of flint, bone, or similar materials) and were not nearly as sharp as any metal weapons that would follow them. Plus, the stone and other materials used for the blade were very brittle, and would crack or break easily. The first bladed weapons appeared as early as the thirteenth century B.C. in multiple locations around the globe.

During the Bronze Age, the first metal blades were introduced, and bladed weapons grew from the dagger to the longer weapon now known as a sword because newly discovered metals were strong enough to allow the construction of longer blades. The oldest metal sword-like weapons were crafted of arsenic copper (from around 3700BC), and later in tin-bronze, from the late third millennium BC in the Middle East. The oldest such weapon found to date was unearthed in Turkey and dated to around 3300 BC, though this is considered a long dagger, not a sword. Bronze Age swords made of copper were unearthed in India and dated back to 2300 BC.

Swords longer than about 24 inches were simply not possible during the Bronze Age because the bronze and other metals then in use lacked the strength, so longer weapons would bend too easily. These swords, made of a much softer metal than later versions, would need frequent sharpening. Copper-tin and other alloys were a bit stronger than bronze, though they would have still required much more sharpening than we would expect of modern blades. As stronger alloys and heat treatment processes were used, longer swords gradually became practical. During both the Bronze and Iron ages, multiple materials were used as the swords’ creators experimented with different alloys and construction techniques.

Swords constructed of iron were, at first, produced alongside copper swords during the Bronze Age, beginning around 3000 BC. Swords made of iron became increasingly common, and soon overtook the production of bronze swords. The Hittites and the Mycenaean Greeks were both early users of iron swords. Because the iron was more widely available, more swords can be produced of this material than those crafted of earlier metals. Harder and more durable than earlier blade weapons, they would require much less maintenance and sharpening.

Still, the quality was incomparable to later blades, especially those made of steel. The iron of this era was not very hard, and according to some accounts, was actually quite comparable in strength and hardness to earlier Bronze Age swords. These swords were known to bend during use, but for the first time entire armies could be equipped with swords and similar bladed weapons. Both the Greek and Roman empires were equipped with iron swords. In the late Roman Empire, the longer spartha sword was commonly carried; it would provide the basis for the Medieval and Renaissance ‘longsword.’ Swords of this period typically measured 24 to 30 inches long.

The term ‘sword’ originates from the old English word ‘sweord.’ Terms for this weapon are also found in Old High German, Middle Dutch, Old Norse, Old Saxon, and other ancient languages. Clearly, the sword was part of culture and society beginning thousands of years ago. In fact, the first bladed weapons are thought to originate in the Bronze Age. Though technically a sword is double-edged, some long single-edged weapons may also be referred to as swords simply because of their length.

By the Iron age, swords had been developed throughout Europe. The Hittites, the Mycenaean Greeks, and other ancient cultures from the 13th to the 8th century BC are known to have had iron swords at their disposal. Iron swords were slightly better in terms of strength and hardness when compared to earlier bronze swords, but were still prone to bending in battle. Both the Greek and Roman empires had arsenals of iron swords.

The medieval sword’s development began with the Roman ‘Spantha.’ This long sword was ineffective against armor, though there was comparatively little armor in the Roman period. Sword construction in the medieval period involved several craftsman, such as the forger of the blade, the polisher, and the person who constructed the hilt of the sword. Because metal chemistry was not well understood, in this era swords varied widely in their quality.

Around the tenth century, the use of properly tempered steel became much more common, and knife blades achieved a consistently high quality. Damascus steel, developed on the Indian subcontinent as early as the 5th century BC, became highly prized because of its properties and high quality. Blades made with this steel were known for a very hard cutting edge. From around 1300 to 1500, this type of steel became very popular for weaponry. Other swordmaking techniques were also brought to Europe. Scandinavian Vikings introduced carbon steel, a very strong metal for the making of swords.

The sword was developed from the Spantha in conjunction with new fighting techniques and new armor styles. During the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, not only armor but also swords saw great improvements. Sword blades became much longer, and could be used with two hands. This new type of sword was known as a longsword, and it often measured four feet or even longer. Its extreme reach and improved cutting abilities made it very useful in battle. The grip was sometimes wrapped with animal hide for a better grip and to make it harder for an opponent to knock it from the user’s hand. From the thirteenth to the sixteenth century, many manuscripts survive covering longsword combat techniques, providing extensive information on their use. Other swords besides the longsword also became important, including the Estoc. The estoc sword was known for its armor piercing capabilities, and was designed with a very sharp point. It was nearly edgeless, making it useless for slashing motions, and was meant only for thrusting through armor. Swords became longer and heavier throughout this period.

When compared to medieval swords, Renaissance swords were smaller, thinner, and shorter. The extremely long swords of centuries past were not good for close combat fighting. As the metal industry grew, new sword technologies allowed for thinner and lightweight swords. Throughout the modern age, swords fell in military importance, though they evolved into civilian sidearms. The shortsword, much shorter than the swords seen in earlier centuries, became a fashion accessory in Europe by the seventeenth century. The smallsword and the rapier remained popular as dueling swords into the mid-18th century.

The basic design of the Samurai sword has remained consistent over several centuries. Swords were already being made in China and elsewhere in Asia during the Bronze and Iron ages. As the technology for steel weaponry improved, single-edged swords became popular throughout Asia. The Japanese ‘tachi’ sword, a precursor to the katana (which would become known as a samurai sword), first appeared around 600 A.D.

The Samurai evolved from a class of warrior employed as the guards of powerful leaders. They established the Ways of the Bushido, a code which dominated the structure of Japanese life for nearly 700 years. Like knights of European fame, their role required absolute allegiance to the leader, and the willingness to die to defend him.

The role of the Samurai required high quality weapons. The katana was designed for fighting in close quarters. Samurai swords are known to be flexible, so that they could take direct impact without shattering, yet also hard enough to retain an impeccably sharp edge over time. Originally the Samurai swords were very similar to Chinese or Korean designs of the same period, although they gradually evolved into a superior sword design. Only the most experienced Japanese sword makers created swords for use by Samurai. It is said that each sword was tested by cutting through corpses before it was used by a Samurai.

The katana or Samurai sword reached its peak in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The Katana sword was originally about two and a half feet long, although it was shortened to about two feet by the sixteenth century. Many samurai carried a much shorter Wakizashi or Shoto sword, with a 12 to 20 inch blade, along with their Katana. These other styles of Japanese swords are also known as Samurai sword, although the Katana is better known.

These Samurai swords have been seen in recent hit films like The Last Samurai and Kill Bill, and today they are viewed as an iconic symbol of the history of Japan. Many collectors enjoy Samurai swords, both the real thing and modern reproductions. Hundreds of authentic Samurai swords made their way to the United States as soldiers’ souvenirs following World War II. Modern swords may be crafted identically to an antique Samurai sword, or in a unique “fantasy” design that is meant to look similar to historic swords. Some are meant for actual use, while others are intended only for display.

Ancient Samurai swords were usually hand polished in a process that took many hours. Today, you can polish your reproduction Samurai sword using modern polishing supplies. Oiling the blade can keep it from rusting. Today, Samurai swords may still be used in the martial art called kendo. If you use your Samurai sword for practice, keep the edge of the sword sharp using a sharpening stone. Samurai blades made with high carbon steel are known to keep a sharp edge for a long time, although some modern swords have blades made of stainless steel instead, and they will require more frequent sharpening.

A straight razor is a traditional men’s accessory that must be properly maintained to ensure a sharp edge. The blade geometry is carefully designed to provide an ideal edge with relatively little effort over time, but this doesn’t mean that using a straight razor is completely maintenance-free.

The level of maintenance required depends on the razor material. Some are stainless steel; these require less care since they won’t rust. Other razors must be rinsed in water and dried thoroughly between uses. Do not store a razor damp. If you won’t be using your straight razor for a long period of time, rub it with mineral oil. Anywhere between six and fifteen close shaves will be possible without sharpening or stropping the razor.

If your razor starts to pull at your skin when you use it, then it is time to hone or strop it. Before you consider whetting or sharpening your straight razor’s blade, let it sit for at least 24 to 48 hours after the last use. There is a fine “fin” on the cutting edge which needs to rest between uses. If you try to sharpen the razor too soon after use, the fin will break off, and you will no longer be able to achieve a close shave using that razor.

To whet, or sharpen, the blade, use a strop. This is a strip made of fine leather. The leather can be rubbed with a special abrasive or polishing paste. A strop is used to attain the very sharp, smooth edge of a straight razor. When stropping a straight razor, the razor is held flat against the leather, with the back of the razor against the strop. It is drawn away from the body, and then is turned over and drawn towards the body. At the end of the stroke, keep the blade in contact with the strop. Turn the knife along the back edge (not the cutting edge) so that it is now facing towards you rather than away from you. If you do not turn the knife over before drawing the razor towards your body, you will damage the cutting edge. A strop is used for routine maintenance, and should be done at least every dozen shaves or so. Repeat the stroke at least ten to twenty times every time you strop the razor.

If your straight razor is very dull, or has been dropped or otherwise gained a severely damaged edged, a strop will not be able to improve the cutting edge. Instead, you’ll need to use a knife sharpening stone or take your razor to a specialist. A grinder may be needed to restore the cutting edge of your straight razor if the edge has been severely nicked, such as if it was opened and then fell from a distance onto a hard surface.

To use a sharpening stone or hone to improve the edge, lay the blade completely flat against the stone. Push it forward, in the direction of the cutting edge. At the same time, move it diagonally over the stone so that the entire cutting edge from side to side comes into contact with the stone. Repeat this process about 10 to 20 times. You must ensure that the razor lies completely flat against the stone so that the cutting edge touches the sharpening stone. Do not press against the blade when honing; the blade’s own weight is enough pressure, and much more weight will deform the edge.

When it comes to knives, guns, and other weapons, there is always plenty of controversy surrounding their use, and subsequently, over legislation governing their use. What length of knife can be carried on you for various purposes? What type of weapons can be carried legally across borders? What types of permits are needed for these actions? Many of these issues boil down to whether ordinary citizens are free to carry any knives that they wish, or whether knife carrying should be heavily regulated.

As you might expect, multiple organizations have formed on both sides of this line. For those who collect or use knives, the American Knife & Tool Institute is the largest such organization. The American Knife and Tool Institute is a non-profit group representing the knife industry, including manufacturers, retailers, custom knife makers, and those who carry or collect knives. Whether you carry utility knives when hunting, keep a pocketknife in your pocket for everyday needs, or simply collect knives in your home, the American Knife & Tool Institute is an organization formed to support your right to do so freely.

The AKTI works to support sensible legislation when it comes to knifes. Their mission is to provide education on safe knife carrying and use, and to support legislation in line with their goals. Founded in 1997, AKTI is a unified voice to represent those in the knife-making and knife-using community. Its purpose is to educate the American public about the various types of knives and related tools that exist, and how to carry and use them properly. Besides education about knife types and the safe and responsible use of knives, the American Knife and Tool Institute also works to encourage knife legislation supporting its goals.

The American Knife and Tool Institute Executive Committee is comprised of industry leaders who meet to provide direction to the Institute programs. AKTI is most well known for its involvement in knife-related legislation throughout the United States, as well as on the federal level. The current and pending legislation monitored by the American Knife and Tool Institute ranges from customs definitions which govern which types of knives can be legally carried across borders to the length of knife that is legal to carry in your pocket. The AKTI website is constantly updated with knife-related legislation and other news events around the country, in addition to the contact information for relevant government officials and knife-rights support groups in your area.

The American Knife and Tool Institute is just one of the many ways for knife owners and enthusiasts to get involved at a grassroots level. It enjoys the support of the National Rifle Association, United States Sportsmen’s Alliance, Wildlife Forever, Whitetails Unlimited, and many related outdoorsmen’s clubs. If you routinely carry knives or use them when hunting, fishing, or engaging in other outdoor activities, consider supporting your rights through the AKTI and other organizations. Even if you don’t belong to such an organization, always carry and use your knives responsibly to set a good example.

Although your serrated knives will still cut as they grow dull, you will begin to notice a tearing or shredding action rather than smooth cuts. If this is happening, then it is time to sharpen your knife. Sharpening dull serrated blades can be a bit more difficult than sharpening plain blades. Maintaining serrations is important if you want your knife to cut well, but they do require a bit more experience to sharpen. Serrated blades can also take longer to sharpen than a similarly sized plain blade.

The good news is that because of the design of a serrated edge, the serrations actually take longer to become dull than a plain edge, even on the same knife. The sharp points on the serrations start the cut, and the curved parts between these points are relatively protected, experiencing less pressure, which keeps them sharper for a longer period.

To sharpen serrated blades you’ll need to find the right knife sharpener. Look for a sharpener that is specifically designed to be used with serrated blades. They may come in the form of a pull-through sharpener, a sharpening stick, or a sharpening stone. What makes them different than regular knife sharpeners is that they have a small “V” shaped cross-section that can be worked inside each serrated tooth. Some serrated knife hones are actually triangular in shape to accommodate these serrations, and they may be tapered to accommodate many differently sized serrations. The same principles apply to choosing a serrated knife sharpener as choosing a regular knife sharpener, including materials and sharpener styles.

Some of these sharpeners can be used both for plain blades and for serrated ones. Gut hooks and fishhooks, found on some knives designed for hunting or other outdoor uses, can be sharpened using this type of sharpener. Pocket-sized serrated knife sharpeners are perfect if you carry a pocketknife with a serrated blade section.

When using the knife sharpener on a serrated blade, regardless of what type of sharpener you choose, keep the angle in mind. On a knife with a partially serrated blade, the serrations are nearly always ground at the same angle as the plain edge portion of the same blade. When sharpening the serrated edge, it should be kept at this same angle to give it as close to the original factory edge as possible. Some styles of knife sharpeners have a system for holding the knife at a specified angle so that you can be sure each of the teeth is sharpened at the angle you choose.

When sharpening serrated knives, you can’t just draw the knife across a sharpening stone like a plain knife blade. To sharpen the serrations, work the hone perpendicular to the cutting edge of each serration. A serrated knife should be sharpened one tooth at a time, which can be time consuming. Only move on to the next tooth when you can see or feel a raised burr of metal. Then flip the knife over, and lightly grind the burr off from the backside of the knife.

Although it can take patience to sharpen serrated blades, the actual process is not that difficult. Don’t let fear of the process scare you away from sharpening your serrated knives. As long as you have the right sharpener, specifically one that is designed for serrated blades, it is possible to return your serrated knives to close to their original sharpness.

If you’re looking to buy a knife, it can be confusing if you don’t know what all of the knife terms mean. First, you’ll want to decide what kind of knife you want. The basic divisions are fixed blade or folding blade. Folding blades, like pocket knives, fold between the handle and the blade. A popular type of knife is a fantasy knife, which is an artistic style of knife not usually meant to be used, but rather to be collected and displayed. Other styles include utility knives, which can be used in hunting, camping, and other outdoor activities. The description of a knife often uses the following terms to refer to different sections of the knife:

The Blade - The edge is the sharpened side of the blade. Serrated edges are those with a set of “teeth” designed to aid in cutting. A knife may be single-edge or double-edged. For a single-edge knife, the back is the unsharpened side of the blade. The spine runs the length of the blade, and is both the thickest and the heaviest section. A wider and thicker spine makes the blade stronger. The point is the very tip of the knife blade. A groove cut into a pocket knife blade to allow opening using your fingernail is called a nail mark or nail nick. The belly is the curved part of the blade’s edge, designed for enhanced slicing. It may be a straight or serrated edge.

The grind is what makes a piece of steel into a sharp knife. It is the thinning of the edge to form a sharp cutting edge. Besides straight edges and serrations, the knife blade may also have a gut hook, which is a hook found on skinning knives to assist in gutting animals.

There are many different knife shapes that you may encounter when looking for a knife. One of the most popular today is the “tanto” knife, which is recognizable by its sharply angled tip. This is one of the strongest knife points because there is more metal supporting the point. A drop point knife, another style you’re likely to see when shopping for knives, is a popular utility knife with a strong point.

Between the Blade and Handle - The bolster is a supportive piece between the blade and the handle, an area that is usually under a lot of stress when the knife is in use. The tang is a part of a fixed blade knife that extends from the blade to the handle. Often, it forms the handle itself, with the grips attached to the tang. If the knife is considered full tang, it means that the edge of the tang is visible along the entire length of the handle.

The Handle - The hilt is the entire handle of the knife. The butt, also known as a pommel, is the end of the knife’s handle. These may be designed for hammering, or they may be removable, allowing the user to store small items in the handle of the knife. Grips are the contoured pieces of the handle allowing for better handling of the knife.

Handle Materials - The handle may be made of a variety of materials. Stag is a deer antler typically seen on folding knives, known for its slightly burnt look. Bone is common on pocketknives, and may be seen in its natural creamy color or dyed a bright shade. Other common handle materials include fiberglass laminates, carbon fiber (a strong material characterized by a woven pattern), titanium, and aluminum. Anodized blades are titanium blades colored using a special electrochemical process.

Other Features - The locking mechanism is a feature on folding knives that prevents it from being opened or closed accidentally. Different knife companies have developed different mechanisms for locking the knife; many are spring loaded to make it easier to open and close the folding knife.

Accessories - Your knife may come with a sheath or case. This is often called a scabbard for larger knives or swords. If you’re looking at collectible knives, they may include a display stand designed to fit that particular knife. Besides the knife itself, you’ll also want a sharpener, which is used to keep the blade edge as sharp as possible.

Founded in 1920, Snap-On is one of the largest U.S. designers and manufacturers of tools and related equipment. Headquartered in Kenosha, Wisconsin, over 11,500 people are currently employed to design, create, and sell Snap-On products. Since its beginning nearly ninety years ago with one style of socket set, tools bearing the Snap-On name have been used by generations of professionals.

The Snap-On brand began with a set of interchangeable wrench handles and sockets. Designed by Joseph Johnson, who was at that time working for American Grinder Manufacturing, the idea for this set was first rejected by Johnson’s boss. Johnson took matters into his own hands, forming the Snap-On company with a co-worker, William Seideman. Along with the first two salesmen, they were the founders of Snap-On Tools. The first set produced included ten sockets with five handles that were completely interchangeable, sold under the catchphrase “Five Do the Work of Fifty.” The mechanism for attaching sockets to handles led to the new company’s name, “Snap-On.”

Besides their unique product, the Snap-On company also set itself apart from its competitors through its direct-marketing approach to tool sales. The first Snap-On tool salesmen brought the tools directly to professional customers’ businesses to demonstrate the unique concept. During the 1950s, Snap-On salesmen first began driving fully stocked, walk-in vans. These vans offered the full range of Snap-On products directly to customers.

Snap-On tools are universally agreed to be well designed and well thought out. Each Snap-On tool is crafted with ergonomic handles and other features to make them easy to use for professionals and amateurs alike. Today’s full range of Snap-On tools includes hand and power tools, air tools, diagnostic tools, and other tools designed for technicians, mechanics, and others in automotive, woodworking, marine, aviation, and related industries. With more than 19,000 products, the Snap-On catalog ranges from basic socket sets to specialty tools designed for specific uses. Besides their range of tools, Snap-On has secured over half a dozen racing sponsorships.

In addition to tools, Snap-On offers many tool accessories, including tool chests and sharpeners. Their sharpeners include pocket hone sets and other handheld sharpeners that can be used with a wide range of knife and tool blades. Many professionals turn to Snap-On not only for their tools, but also for the products to care for these tools.

Today, Snap-On is recognized as an industry leader, with the highest quality tools available anywhere. Each tool is carefully designed to hold up to rigorous shop use, yet be easy to use for amateurs. All Snap-On tools are covered by a lifetime warrantee, so you can be sure they will last no matter what you put them through.

Snap-On is known not only for quality, but also for innovation. Their determination to be the best in the industry has led the Snap-On team to constantly create new products since their original socket set nearly ninety years ago. Many products available today are the result of mechanics’ and technicians’ input on products that they would like Snap-On to offer. Today, Snap-On holds more than 1,700 active patents worldwide, and each year the company is granted dozens more.

Kershaw Knives was founded in 1974 in Portland, Oregon, by a knife salesman named Pete Kershaw. He previously worked with the well-known Gerber Precision Knives company, where he had begun to come up with his own knife designs. The Kershaw Knives company was Pete Kershaw’s opportunity to produce and market his own knives. Today, Kershaw is one of the leading knife companies in the United States and worldwide.

At its founding, the Kershaw Company manufactured most of its knives in Japan despite being an American company. Kershaw has been a wholly owned subsidiary of the Japanese KAI Group since 1977. Today, most Kershaw knives are produced in facilities in Wilsonville or Tualatin, Oregon, although some are still produced overseas. Kershaw Knives is very much an American company, and has maintained offices as well as production facilities in the United States since its founding.

Today, the Kershaw company designs and produces many different types of knives, including hunting and outdoor knives, pocketknives, and a wide selection of kitchen cutlery. There are three main product lines: Kershaw Knives for hunting and outdoor knives as well as pocketknives and other basic styles, Shun Cutlery for kitchen cutlery, and Zero Tolerance or ZT, a unique line of combat-style knives designed for police, military, and related uses.

Although Kershaw makes many different knife styles, they are perhaps best known for their hunting knives. Many of their knife models are designed for specific hunting and outdoor tasks, such as the aptly named “deer hunting” and “antelope hunter” knives. The Kershaw Knives inventory is categorized by use, including pocket/utility, fishing, hunting/outdoor, police/military, and water sports. Kershaw also produces a range of knife-related tools and accessories, such as sharpeners.

Kershaw kitchen knives under the Shun Cutlery name are also well reviewed, although many have noted that they do require frequent sharpening to maintain their extreme sharpness. Kershaw steel knives are known for being strong and durable, with a well balanced and easy-to-use handle and blade design.

Although Kershaw offers a complimentary sharpening service for their knives, Kershaw knife sharpeners are also available. These make a great choice if you want to use your knife often or don’t want the hassle of having to send it in for sharpening. Kershaw knife sharpeners also make an excellent choice for sharpening non-Kershaw knives. The range of sharpeners includes the Ultra-Tek sharpening stick with 600 grit diamond coated shaft and the Shun electric knife sharpener designed to quickly sharpen kitchen cutlery.

Kershaw Knives has won numerous awards over the years for various knife designs, including SpeedSafe opening mechanisms for one-handed opening of folding knives. Recent developments in knife technology at Kershaw include a process for manufacturing knife blades using two different steels in the same blade. They are also known for several collaborative projects in knife design, including a 2004 model which had authentic stingray leather covering the handle. Recently, Kershaw won the prestigious “Knife of the Year” award. Besides knife quality, Kershaw is also known for its lifetime warrantee; all Kershaw products are guaranteed against defects for life.

Today, swords are a very popular area of collecting. They may be displayed along with a knife collection, or by themselves on sword display stands. Many are elaborately decorated, making them beautiful show pieces, while others are more utilitarian. Some are designed purely for decoration, while others are “battle ready,” meaning that they can actually be used.

There are several different types of metals usually used for swords. Stainless steel swords are popular and easy to find in knives designed for display. It is not as durable as Carbon steel, which is often found in swords designed to be used, such as those used in fighting shows at Renaissance festivals, or for fencing.

Sword collectors may specialize in a certain type of sword, from a medieval broad sword to a samurai sword to a Cavalry sword used in the Civil War. Nearly every era of history has a typical sword style, although swords for weaponry or personal defense began to die out in the nineteenth century as reliable guns became available.

An Eastern sword, also known as a pirate sword, European sword, or medieval sword, is characterized by its long, double-edged blade, as well as a straight hand guard. Samurai swords have a round hand guard and single edged blade, often with a slight curve. Another type of Asian sword is the Japanese katana, developed during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. These usually have a wooden handle with some sort of wrapping, and often a scabbard to match. You can find authentic swords for the past several decades, or reproduction and fantasy versions of earlier sword types.

There are also many new or reproduction swords designed specifically for collectors, including fantasy and movie swords that are not designed after any sword used in history. Swords made for decorative use often come with a plaque, wall mounted display, or stand.

Other swords are decorative, yet are meant to be used in a costume or for reenactments. These swords often come with a scabbard instead of a display stand. These swords are less delicate than those designed solely for display, although they usually aren’t meant for heavy daily use like true historical swords. Other swords for costume use have an unsharpened, rounded blade. They cannot be used as actual swords, but are safe for plays and other productions, and still make beautiful display pieces.

Caring for your sword collection includes occasionally rubbing the blade with oil. Those made of stainless steel require less care than those made with carbon steel blades. If you actually use a sword, such as for fencing, you will need to sharpen it to keep the blade sharp. Display swords should not dull or require sharpening.

Swords are available in nearly any price range. If you collect swords for aesthetic reasons, any quality of sword is acceptable as long as you like the appearance. Swords for actual use, whether in plays or reenactments or “battle ready” swords, should be higher quality to withstand this use. When buying a sword that you plan to use, it’s important to feel it to make sure it is comfortable; swords vary greatly in their overall weight and how this weight is balanced, which can affect how well you can handle the knife.

The term “Bowie knife” does not refer to a specific company, as many believe. The term actually refers to a certain style of knife popularized by Colonel James “Jim” Bowie. Today, a bowie knife is any type of large sheath knife with a clip point.

The first knives made for Jim Bowie throughout his lifetime resembled other common knives of that time period. The first knife, designed by Jim Bowie’s brother and made by blacksmith James Black, looked like a cross between a Spanish hunting knife and a regular butcher knife, with a blade nearly 10 inches long, a quarter of an inch thick, and about an inch and a half wide. Unlike modern Bowie knives, this knife did not have a clip point; it also did not have a hand guard, unlike modern versions. The first Bowie knife and all subsequent knives made by James Black are known for very hard steel; he died without giving up the secret, and to the present day, the process has not been duplicated.

This first version of the Bowie knife became quite famous after a fight following a duel in 1827. Once the duel was over, a fight broke out among the spectators, and Bowie killed three men using his knife even though he had been shot with a rifle. When Bowie and his knife rose to instant popularity, Bowie and his brother began receiving many requests for the knife, and ended up commissioning many versions from various knife makers.

Most Bowie knives have a blade of between 6 and 12 inches long. The steel is usually relatively thick and broad, up to 2 inches wide and 1/4” thick. Some Bowie knife blades have a strip of brass, copper, or another soft metal, which was intended as a shock absorber to prevent relatively poor quality blades from breaking. Other features included an upper guard to catch an opponent’s blade and protect the user’s hand. Some also included a unique notch on the bottom of the blade, near the hilt. This “Spanish Notch” is said to have been used to catch the opponent’s blade, although its actual use is somewhat unclear. It may have been used as a tool or as a guide for the blade sharpening process.

The clip point found on most Bowie knives had a unique back edge, sometimes called a “false edge,” which could also be sharpened. These knives were made by many companies in Sheffield, England, since the 1850s, and are sometimes called “Sheffield Bowie” knives. The Bowie knife also has a curved tip. Since the 1960s many Bowie knives have been made with serrated teeth on the blade’s backside; during the Vietnam War the U.S. Army issued these knives, because the teeth could cut through the acrylic of a downed plane or helicopter.

Today, many different companies make Bowie knives, and term is often used to describe any large sheath knife. They are available in decorative and commemorative styles as well as functional hunting or survival knives. This knife, in its modern incarnation, is useful for camping and hunting as well as a weapon; it is designed to do both jobs exceptionally well, leading to its present-day popularity.

Columbia River Knife & Tool is a relative newcomer to the American knife market, having only been established in 1994. Based in Oregon, Columbia River Knife & Tool, or CRKT for short, was founded by two former employees of Kershaw Knives, a well-known knife maker. The founders were Rod Bremer and Paul Gillespi. Many of the revolutionary new features of CRKT were designed by these two men.

The first CRKT knife to see widespread success was the Keep It Super Simple, or K.I.S.S., knife, introduced in 1998 and designed by Ed Halligan. This small folding knife immediately sold out, causing Columbia River Knife & Tool to triple their original production figures for the year. This small folding knife is known for smooth operation and a precision design. The K.I.S.S. knife was originally designed with a Tanto-inspired blade, and can be opened or closed with one hand thanks to innovative new design features. This knife is designed to be carried anywhere; it can be placed on a keychain, and also includes a money clip. This simple and elegant design is known for its small size and good performance. Several versions of this popular knife are still available today, over a decade since its introduction.

Today, Columbia River Knife & Tool produces a wide range of knives, bladed tools, and accessories such as sharpening rods and systems. Their knife selection includes fixed blades and folding knives for nearly any purpose. CRKT currently owns fifteen patents, with many more pending, and prides itself on constantly developing new features. Although relatively new to the knife market, Columbia River Knife & Tool is known for including major developments and features in each new knife model.

One of their most popular knife design features is the AutoLAWKS locking mechanism. This system keeps the knife locked once it is opened, preventing the knife from being closed unless the lock is disengaged. The Outburst system is another one of their proprietary features. This spring-assist quickly opens the knife once it is opened 30 degrees. Other patents include other opening or locking mechanisms, as well as Veff-Serrated knife edges. Veff-Serrations are different from regular serrated knife blades because they are much larger than typical serrations, and are set at a 60 degree rather than 90 degree angle. Overall, these new developments have made Columbia River Knife & Tool products much easier to use than other knives on the market.

The CRKT sharpening system is based on sharpening rods. The “Slide Sharp” system uses a patented system to hold the knife blade at the correct angle, which is very important when sharpening a knife. This sharpening system can be used for Columbia River Knife & Tool blades as well as knives from other manufacturers.

Columbia River Knife & Tool is known for pocket knives, hunting knives, and military or tactical knives, as well as a wide selection of tools, carrying cases, and knife sharpeners. Simple yet well-designed, each product in the CRKT lineup is practical and purpose-driven, with an innovative design and great value without compromising on quality.

In recent years, Japanese knives have become very popular for kitchen use. Japanese chef’s knives may be seen in popular cooking shows, and are found at many cutlery stores.

Unlike other knives, such as German knives, Japanese knives are designed to be very lightweight, with a fine edge. Their steel blade is brittle and sharp, unlike other knives that are designed to be tough and flexible. As a result, these Japanese knives will be very, very sharp. The edge is less likely to bend, so it will stay sharper for longer. Japanese knives must be hand washed because the dishwasher may damage the blade, but quality Japanese blades don’t usually need as much sharpening to attain a razor-sharp edge, but may need more frequent sharpening because the blade edge is not as durable.

Japanese cutlery usually uses one of two traditional forging methods, called honyaki or kasumi. Honyaki are high-carbon steel, and these forged knives are made entirely of one material. Kasumi blades are made from steel plus soft iron, forged together. The steel forms the blade edge, and the iron is the blade’s body and spine. Both types of Japanese knives are known for being durable and very sharp.

There are many styles of Japanese kitchen knives. The most popular of these are the deba bocho, or kitchen cleaver, the santoku hocho, an all-purpose utility knife, and vegetable knives called either nakiri bocho or usuba hocho. There are dozens of other Japanese knife types, each used for specific tasks such as making udon or filleting tuna. Although there are so many different knife types, similar to a set that might be found in a western kitchen, most Japanese chefs choose just one or two of these to become their favorite knives. These knives are used for almost every kitchen task, despite their original design as a specialized knife. The choice of Japanese knives often depends just as much on personal style or taste than on the knife’s intended purpose.

Unlike most Western-style knives, Japanese knives, particularly those produced in the past, were often single-ground, so that only one side holds a cutting edge. The traditional belief was that a knife designed in such a way cuts better, with cleaner cuts, though they often require more skill to use than one with a double-ground edge. They are believed to cause the food to slide up and away from the blade, rather than sticking to it. However, today many western-style knives are being produced in Japan; most santoku knives today are double-ground.

Most Japanese knives you’ll find in stores today comes from Sakai, a region that has been producing high-quality samurai swords since the 1930s. And in fact, kasumi knives are made in the same manner as traditional samurai swords. Knife production there began back in the 16th century, and the Sakai region has remained the top cutlery producing area in Japan since then. Today, blades in Sakai are produced using a combination of modern technology and traditional hand tools.

Although Japanese knives are very sharp, they may be difficult to learn how to use, depending on their design. However, today’s Japanese knives have begun including western features, such as the double-ground, to make such knives more usable for western chefs and home cooks.

There are a great number of hunting and survival knife types on the market today. Each is designed for a specific purpose. No outdoor enthusiast should ever be without a hunting or survival knife; they are also popular among knife collectors. Whether you are a knife enthusiast or collector, or use the knives for hunting, camping, or other outdoor activities, it can be helpful to learn what each knife is designed for.

There are hunting and survival knives in both a fixed blade and folding blade style. Fixed blades take up more space, and this can be important if you’re traveling in the wilderness. However, they are generally sturdier than folding knives. On the other hand, folding knives are more compact and easier to carry with you. Bigger is not always better with hunting knives. A 3-5 inch blade is about what you will need for most applications, though hunting and survival knives are also made in much larger sizes.

When choosing the blade finish, there are many choices, including black, stainless steel, and powder coated. The black coating on a blade will eventually wear off, especially if the knife is used frequently, but it can keep down glare, which can be helpful in hunting or survival applications. Powder coated blades and stainless steel will help keep the blade from rusting. A high quality blade that is specifically designed for hunting or outdoor use should be able to withstand frequent use without chipping, cracking, or rusting.

Besides the blade type, you’ll also want to choose a handle. If your knife will be used in inclement weather, a rubberized handle can help you maintain your grip. If your hunting or survival knife will be more of a collectible, other choices such as bone, horn, or exotic wood are available. Many high-quality hunting knives are made using one solid piece of steel for the blade and the handle; this can ensure that the joint between the blade and the handle does not break when the knife is put to the test. Other hunting and survival knives have hollow handles for carrying emergency supplies.

Most hunting and survival knives are distinguished from each other by the blade shape. Choosing the right blade shape is important because an outdoor knife must be able to stand up to hacking, slicing, and stabbing. A drop point blade is very popular because it is so versatile. This blade style has a sharp curve. It is useful for almost any task, and is known to stand up to plenty of abuse without cracking or chipping. The alternative to a drop point blade is generally a Bowie knife. These are often preferred by hunters, although they are not as versatile for camp chores or skinning as a drop point blade.

Clip point blades are thinner steel, with a very sharp point. Not as versatile as a drop point or Bowie style blade, they are a bit more fragile. If you try to pry anything with the sharp point, it may break off. A skinning blade is a specialized blade designed for skinning animals. These are usually used in addition to a general-purpose hunting knife.

Survival blades usually have serrated edges, which are best for cutting through tough materials, such as wood or bone. Although a straight edge is easier to sharpen quickly, serrated edges are quite useful, and can still be sharpened with practice. Hunting blades may also have gut hooks, which are special features for gutting kills quickly. These hooks are found on the end of a blade, on the opposite side as the cutting edge.

My wife Tara confessed that she didn't know what to get me for Father's Day this year (aren't the kids supposed to buy me a present? hahahaha) - but would I like one of our nice Knife Sharpeners?

Well, actually, I would! It may seem strange, but I haven't bought one of our really nice sharpening systems and always wanted one myself.

So, I browsed around and picked my favorite, and Tara ordered it - in plenty of time for Father's Day.

But this made me think that a Father's Day special offer is probably in order. So let's make one up. How about this - order anything from our store before Midnight on June 16th and use the coupon code Fathers2009 and get 10% off everything in your cart.

Now you have no excuse - and if your special guy is as stoked as me at getting my new sharpener you'll have a Happy Dad!

Knives are one of the oldest tools to ever have been used. Early humans used sharp stones, bones, or wood pieces to cut and carve. The first effective knives were made out of flint. Even before that, knives were made out of a hard silicate form of the mineral quartz. They could be crudely formed into a palm-shape with a sharp edge which could be used for cutting, scraping, and other activities. These knives were shaped and sharpened against rocks.

With the invention of metal came great advancements in this early human tool. Humans learned the art of melting metals, which could then be molded into various shapes, including knives. As civilizations advanced, knives could be made out of newer and better materials. First came knives out of copper and bronze, and then iron.

These knives were often decorated with feathers; our ancestors took great pride in possessing a beautiful knife, as well as one that was relatively sharp compared to other knives of the period. Some knives were designed just for men, while others included designs specifically for women. These included fancy gold and silver designs for the upper classes. These jeweled knives were prized possessions, and were often carried in sheaths attached to a belt.

Once knives with metal alloys became possible, knives could be made out of many combinations of metals, first steel and then even harder materials. This paved the way for today’s knives, made of stainless steel and similar alloys.

Since this early history, knives have been used for diverse activities including hunting, eating, tasks such as cutting wood or other materials, and as weapons. However, with the advent of guns and other forms of advanced warfare, the knife lost its place on the battlefield. Today, knives mainly serve domestic duties, or are used by hunters, campers, and other outdoorsmen.

Even though the materials and purposes of knives have changed greatly over the years, the shape of a knife has not changed much over time. The basic knife shape, with a handle and blade, was present even in the earliest knives. Although modern knives have more variations due to varying knife uses and more sophisticated technology for constructing knives, the basic concept remains unchanged.

Knife technology has come a long way over the past several thousand years. Today, rubberized handles, more advanced blade materials, and additional built in features make modern knives much more effective than their historic or even prehistoric counterparts. Modern knives may even utilize more complex materials such as titanium, ceramic, and carbon fiber, although steel is still widely used.

Today’s knives also differ from historic knives mainly in how sharp they are able to become. Older technologies resulted in thicker and blunter knife blades. Today’s knives can be much sharper, which results in easier to use knives. Older knife materials would have required much more pressure to be applied in order to cut the same materials, and they would not have been usable for precision cuts like the knives of today.